OMG I think I’ve found my most perfect favourite pattern EVER… well until something else catches my eye bien sûr…
Welcome to The Portlandia dress. Why Portlandia? Because it’s got a bird on it!
This pattern was uber easy to put together, but I must quote Roisin here – ’once you get over the needlessly baffling instructions’ (have you seen Roisin’s version? Gorgeous!). Basically Pattern Runway split out every bit of the dress and then give you yardage for each section so for maths durrs like me it was impossible to try and work out how much actual bladdy fabric I needed. Cue lots of cantering from sewing room to sewing table, arms filled with fabric, excitement turning to disappointment and a certain amount of mewling (yes I mewl, don’t you?) when I would realise that successive fabrics which would have been just perfect, weren’t sufficient enough to the task.
I’ve worn this dress all day without the petticoat – not too creased eh?
But not my ‘Put a bird on it!’ fabric, hooray. Three metres was just enough to squeeze a dress out of.
A lot of fabric goes into this skirt, and unfortunately the folded fabric was too narrow for the skirt pattern pieces, so I had to cut two identical lengths of fabric, place them right sides together and cut out the skirt pieces separately.
I used two pieces roughly 125 cms in length for the skirt, facings and sleeves and I was left with about 50 cms left for the bodice so I did that double fold thing, you know, where you have the fabric folding in on either side to the centre. Psst, I actually have a bit of selvedge in my seam allowance on the centre back bodice – it was that tight.
The obligatory cat photo
Pattern fit and adjustments
Anyway – on to the actual pattern! I cut out a size 12 exactly as was on the pattern after flat-measuring the pattern pieces, adding ease and subtracting seam allowance. It’s almost spot on but there will be some adjustments to make. I’m going to remove an inch or so from the neckline front and probably two inches from the back. This will neaten the shoulders and stop that dreaded bra strap from showing as well as removing any gaping at the back neck. I’m really happy with the waist – it has just enough ease to be comfortable but not so much it looks cinched in when I wear a belt.
New skillz learned
The double darts in the bodice are a first – I love how they pull the bodice in so elegantly. But this is such a simple dress there really are no special skills required to complete it. It would be a great project for a beginner.
I really made an effort to finish the seams nicely on this dress so everything is French seamed with the exception of the armscye seams and the bit of seam allowance under the zipper – I’ll try and work out a good way to do that for the next version but I find sleeves and zippers stressful enough without trying to French seam them! It was a little daunting at first but the effect was so lovely and neat.
The inside with french seams
For those who don’t know what a French seam is – it’s basically enclosing the raw edges within your seams. Here’s how to do it.
1. With wrong side to wrong side (I know, weird innit) sew a 1/4″ seam allowance. Trim the allowance to about 1/8″. Press the seam both sides.
2. Now turn the edges right side to right side (like how you’d normally sew a seam) and sew a 3/8″ seam allowance, thus enclosing that previous seam within your new seam and hiding any nasty raw edges. Press as usual and marvel at your gorgeous 5/8″ neat seams, sans overlocker! Please note if your seams are supposed to be 1/2″ or otherwise you may have to revisit the maths.
This particular pattern is perfect to try the technique with, as rather bizarrely it encourages you to attach front bodice to front skirt and back bodice to back skirt before you sew the side seams.
Will you make this dress again?
There will be many versions of this dress I suspect. I really liked the stand up collar that’s included in the pattern but my next version will probably have a self drafted contrast Peter Pan collar and probably be lined. I’m thinking something in navy blue with a cute design (maybe even polka dots!), a white peter pan collar, piped sleeve cuffs and perhaps a slightly shorter skirt. Another silky evening version might have 3/4 length sleeves and a matching belt. Oooh the possibilities. You could even draft your own skirt – the bodice would look very slinky atop a wiggle skirt. It would also be really interesting as a fine wool knit for winter.
How much did it cost?
Fabric – 3 metres at £3 a metre
Zipper – from stash but let’s say £1.50
Pattern – £6 including delivery.
Thread – from stash but let’s say £2
Interfacing – from stash but let’s say about £1
Total cost: £19.50
How long did it take?
I cut everything out in a couple of hours on Friday night, spent about three hours in total on it on Saturday and another three hours on Sunday so approximately 8 hours.
Anything to add?
Did I mention I love this pattern?
Awesomus Maximus! That is one super-lovely dress and all your talk of future versions has me very excited. I can’t for the life of me see any fitting issues that you plan to address in the next version. I am dying to see you in a glamorous evening version of this – though I do appreciate we don’t often have call for evening glamour here in London. Maybe we should plan a glamorous night out?! American Bar at The Savoy… Mmmmmm…
Awesomus Maximus Hilarious! Ooh that did make me laugh…! I know – the pics don’t really show any fitting issues and there aren’t really… it’s more about neatening up the bodice a bit round the neckline and that’s all. It truly is a wonderful dress – I highly recommend it! Oooh I love the American Bar!!!
So beautiful! The petticoat completes it.
Hhehe I love the petticoat too – although not sure about wearing it to work. It’s my wedding petticoat so it’s nice to give it another airing
So timely – I’m just about to cut this out but struggling to decide which size to cut.
I love your dress, it’s gorgeous!
Ooh exciting! I would definitely recommend measuring the flat pattern first with your measurements to hand. I used Tilly’s tute for this and it worked a treat. http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/2011/01/cutting-out-right-size-pattern.html
Thank you for kind words
Great! Thanks for the link, can’t wait to get started!
I’m considering cutting the front skirt on the fold – does it really need the front seam?
Hey Jane – yes I think that would be fine. You’d have to subtract seam allowances from the centre and then figure out where the pleats would go but I think it’s doable. Dolly Clackett did the same thing http://dollyclackett.blogspot.co.uk/2012/05/good-god-hank-you-look-like-fella-that.html
This is possibly the most awesome bird dress ever! It literally looks perfect on you and I love it paired with the petticoat, though totally get that it’s not an everyday look! The sound of more versions is very exciting indeed, can’t wait to see them ;o)
Thanks Marie – I’m already really excited about further versions – it’s amazing how a good pattern can get your sewjo up and rearing to go!
Fantastic – this pattern seems to be getting the thumbs up from bloggers, and I love your version.
It’s ace Kerry – so so easy and although I’ve never done a Project Runway pattern before I believe they’re known for their almost infinite possibilities, and this dress is super-super-adaptable which makes it a winner.
Oh stop tempting me with more new patterns, you know I can’t resist! This is so, so pretty Joanne and the fit looks perfect to me. I also like the sound of your other versions, especially the evening one – let’s definitely plan a glam night out to showcase it! X
Oh YES we must. Do you fancy making it too Jane – gwaaaan – it’s so you too!
This is AWESOME-O. I adore the fabric and the fit looks spot on to me. You know, I didn’t even try to work out the yardage, I just eyed it and thought “eh… 3 metres will do” and I just managed to squeeze it out! You and I Joanne, we’ll be the quare 2444 twins in our multiple versions of this beauty!
The quare twins – I love the norn irishness of it all! Let’s do a wee jig to celebrate!
YEEEEEOOOOOOOOOOOO
Ooo!!! It’s gorgeous!!!!! I love the insides, they’re so neat; and I love the petticoat too.
I stumbled upon your blog about a week ago and am so pleased I found it – This is a lovely dress, well done (impressive on the inside too)! Keep up with the inspiring posts … Ooh and the bird fabric is great, I too love birds on my dresses!!
Thank you so much and welcome!
Love this! You look cute as can be! I agree that you should make several of these! It’s just the right amount of twirly! When I made this dress for my mom, I freaked out with all the fabric requirements, too, and ended up with tons of leftover fabric. Oh well! I found the instructions way confusing, too– I ended up highlighting the parts that applied to me just to try to stay sane! I couldn’t quite figure out how the pleat thingy at the CF of the skirt was supposed to work, so I winged it and it worked out OK.
exactly the same here Ginger! I wasn’t sure if the pleats should slightly overlap in the middle or not so I overlapped slightly and it seemed to work out – who knows eh?
I love your dress and the fit. It’s great when a pattern fits well without much fiddling;) I’ve been having to alter many lately
Good enough to wear inside out, where did you get that fab fabric.
Hey Debby – I got it in Fabric Land in Brighton
Great thanks will have to check it out would love a blouse in that fabric.
Hahaha …put a bird on it. Hilarious. I made a sleeveless version of that same dress recently! I really love the sleeves on yours though. I think I’ll have to make it again
This is your very last non-bright dress yea? Blue/ orange next time! Do it, doit! XD
You’re very bossy young lady! But you amuse me so at some point I may humour you
Yay the excitement! Cannot wait. XD
Birdy gorgeousness! I love those patterns but the math..oy! I eagerly await more versions…
Heheh i know! Teh maths is hard
Its so very gorgeous! I love it with the petticoat!!
I love it with the petticoat too Sallie but sadly it’s a little impractical for work
Hope your toe’s better!
OMG you’re a princess!!! I love it so much, especially with the petticoat!! You must feel so incredibly girly wearing that!!
I do i do!
This pattern is currently on my sewing table. Now just to find the time to sew it. You dress is very pretty.
Thanks Dibs! I highly recommend this pattern – so easy
You look lovely! I think this is one of those *perfect* patterns. It’s almost foolproof!
It certainly is and i LOVE your version!
Lovely! I’ve been racking my brain trying to think of a pattern to go with a certain fabric and I think this might be it. And I already have the pattern – yay! How light/heavy is the fabric you used? Mine is almost a quilting cotton, although a little softer and a tiny bit silky, and I’m trying to work out whether it would make the sleeves in particular a bit stiff… xx
It wasn’t very heavy Tilly, not a quilting cotton anyway. The sleeves do sit quite proud of the dress anyway so you might be ok. It is a great dress to do – you’ll whip it up in no time!
I’ve nearly finished my 2444 and I’ve used a heavy cotton and IMHO it works. I’m hoping to hem and post in a couple of days!
All done! I love this pattern. It’s almost a new religion for me!
Thanks!
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Where did you get that fabric at £3 a metre?! I’ve been stalking it for a long time and can’t find it that well priced! Ooh, and I completely love the dress too and have obsessively bought a copy of the pattern. Haven’t decided a fabric for it though, but I promise it wont be birds
I’ll shut up now, as you’d answered further up. Love this new to me supplier – £3.49 a metre?! Very happy!
Ah glad you saw it! It’s great isn’t it?!
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